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  • MOUNTAINS IN GREATER BANDUNG: Mount Wayang Pangalengan with the Charm of Situ Cisanti and the Wayang Crater on Its Two Slopes

MOUNTAINS IN GREATER BANDUNG: Mount Wayang Pangalengan with the Charm of Situ Cisanti and the Wayang Crater on Its Two Slopes

The journey to peak of Mount Wayang offers us the choice to enjoy two natural charms on its two slopes: the picturesque Situ Cisanti and the beautiful Wayang Crater.

Mount Wayang is flanked by Mount Bedil on the left and Mount Windu on the right, as seen from the road in Cinyiruan Village, in August 2020. (Photo: Gan Gan Jatnika)

Penulis Gan Gan Jatnika28 September 2023


BandungBergerak.id - Located approximately 33 kilometers to the south of Bandung City, there are three mountains standing in a row stretching from north to south. These three mountains are Mount Bedil, Mount Wayang, and Mount Windu. These mountains emerge within the caldera area of Mount Pangalengan Purba.

The journey to reach the foothills of Mount Wayang from the city of Bandung offers us the opportunity to enjoy two natural attractions on each of its slopes: Situ Cisanti on the eastern side and the Wayang Crater on the western side.

Access and Location

Administratively, Mount Wayang is located in the Bandung Regency, with its western foothills and slopes located in Wanasuka Village, Pangalengan Subdistrict, while its eastern foothills and slopes are in Tarumajaya Village, Kertasari Subdistrict.

Both of these foothill and slope areas possess their own individual charm, complementing the beauty of Mount Wayang. On the western slope, there lies a beautiful crater named Wayang Crater. Meanwhile, on the eastern slope, there is a serene lake known as Situ Cisanti.

Choosing the route that passes Situ Cisanti, we can take the road from Bandung towards Mohammad Toha Street, continuing through Baleendah and Ciparay. From Alun-alun Ciparay, we turn towards Pacet until we arrive at Cibeureum Market. From here, it's as simple as asking the locals for directions to Situ Cisanti and Mount Wayang.

The distance from Bandung to Situ Cisanti is about 50-55 kilometers. To simplify the journey, we can search for the route on Google by typing the keywords "Situ Cisanti."

Meanwhile, to reach Mount Wayang through the Wayang Crater route from Bandung, we can drive towards Banjaran and then turn to the south towards Pangalengan. Before reaching Pangalengan, we take a left turn at the intersection near Kertamanah Tea Plantation. This intersection is easily recognizable as it's located right across from the Pangalengan souvenirs center, Pia Kawitan Store.

From this intersection, we take the left road, following the well-constructed concrete road. After passing through the cool and refreshing tea plantations, we will arrive at Cinyiruan Village, the location of the first quinine factory and plantation in the archipelago. From there, we will pass by the Cibolang hot springs and a new trendy tourist destination, a Dutch heritage house that gained popularity after being featured in the movie "Pengabdi Setan" (2017) directed by Joko Anwar. About 30 minutes later, we will reach the Wayang Crater.

There's no need to worry about getting lost along the way, as there are plenty of road signs that will guide us to our destination. To make it even easier, we can search for the route on Google by typing the keywords "Wayang Crater."

Mount Wayang has an elevation of 2,198 meters above sea level (masl), according to the Rupa Bumi Indonesia (RBI) map published by the Geospatial Information Agency, map sheet 1208-632, titled "Lebaksari," edition I-1999, scale 1:25,000. Among climbers, its elevation is more commonly known as 2,182 masl.

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Toponyms and Mythical Story

There are several versions of the toponym or origin of the name Mount Wayang. The most famous one suggests that the name of this mountain is indeed derived from the word "wayang," which refers to the traditional Indonesian shadow puppetry. This is supported by the naming of a location on its slope where there are many rocks. The shape of one of these rocks resembles a wayang figure or the puppetry elements used in wayang performances, hence the rock is also known as batu wayang (puppet rock). From here, the name Mount Wayang emerged.

There's also a toponym related to a tale from ancient times, but unfortunately, there's no clear information available about which kingdom this refers to. It's said that Mount Wayang was a place for ceremonies aimed at preserving nature and expressing gratitude for its wealth. In these ceremonies, revered spiritual leaders and scholars usually discussed various aspects of life, including knowledge that contributes to maintaining the balance of nature. Not only were these topics discussed, but also the holy book of origin knowledge was read.

This ceremony was called twahyang, which then evolved into wahyang, and then further evolved into the more familiar wayang. This eventually became the name of the place, hence "Mount Wayang." (From "Gunung di Tatar Sunda" by Aan Merdeka Permana, published in 2019).

Another version of the toponym, as cited from the book "Bandung Purba" (2004) by T. Bachtiar, states that the name "Mount Wayang" comes from two words: "Wa," which means wind or gentle breeze, and "Hyang," which means God or deity. The combination of these words signifies a gentle breeze originating from the realm of the gods, or in short: divine wind.

It's indeed suggested that the naming of Mount Wayang doesn't actually derive from the term wayang as in shadow puppetry. However, it's interesting to explore whether the myth about the sound of gamelan music sometimes heard on this mountain is related to wayang puppetry. The answer, as it turns out, is no. The myth of the gamelan music sound is linked to the legend of Situ Cisanti, not the art of wayang.

Visitors enjoying the ambiance of Situ Cisanti with the background of the Citarum 0 Kilometer Monument and Mount Wayang, March 2021. (Photo by Gan Gan Jatnika)
Visitors enjoying the ambiance of Situ Cisanti with the background of the Citarum 0 Kilometer Monument and Mount Wayang, March 2021. (Photo by Gan Gan Jatnika)

Situ Cisanti, the Zero Kilometer of Citarum River

The tranquility of Tarumajaya Village, especially in Pejaten Village, owes much to the presence of tea plantations, vegetable farms, and dairy farms. Also, the existence of a cool lake, surrounded by lush forests at the foot of Mount Wayang. This lake, known as Situ Cisanti, is believed to be the source of water for the longest river in the Parahyangan region, Ci Tarum.

Situ Cisanti serves as a gathering point for the flow of water from seven springs, which are then channeled into the Citarum River. These seven springs are Ci Tarum, Ci Kahuripan, Ci Koleberes, Ci Haniwung, Ci Sadane, Ci Kawudukan, and Ci Santi. The names of these seven springs are written on tourism signs and can be found when visiting the area.

In the corners of Situ Cisanti, there are places often visited by pilgrims. According to local residents, on the eastern side of Mount Wayang, there are graves or sites of Eyang Sembah Dalem, Eyang Salasah, Eyang Mangkubumi or Mangkujagat, Eyang Jagalawang, Eyang Pamukalawang, Eyang Buyut, and Eyang Haji. Some people visit all of these graves, while others may visit only one or a few.

Eyang Jagalawang is mythologized as one of the rulers of Mount Wayang. Once upon a time, Eyang Jagalawang was planning to marry off his daughter, Princess Langka Ratnaningrum, to a young man named Gagak Taruna. However, on the wedding day, Gagak Taruna did not show up. Then, it was discovered that he had passed away and his body was floating on the surface of Situ Cisanti.

Legend has it that on his way to the wedding at Mount Wayang, Gagak Taruna was lured by a princess who was actually the guardian spirit of Situ Cisanti. In short, Eyang Jagalawang became upset and furious. Innocent gamelan players were cursed and turned into stone statues or sculptures. Also, he kicked a hot stove, transforming it into the Cibolang Crater.

In addition to the above-mentioned graves and sites, there is also a site in Situ Cisanti in the form of a tomb of Eyang Dipati Ukur. The presence of this tomb site is related to his efforts in defending the land of Sunda from the Kingdom of Mataram.

Visitors posing for a photo together in the tourism area of Kawah Wayang, September 2021. (Photo by Gan Gan Jatnika)
Visitors posing for a photo together in the tourism area of Kawah Wayang, September 2021. (Photo by Gan Gan Jatnika)

Mount Wayang Crater, a Beautiful Natural Fumarole

Another eastern slope, another western slope of Mount Wayang. While the eastern slope has Situ Cisanti, the western slope has a crater. From this crater billows white smoke with a distinctive sulfur aroma. The view of Mount Wayang Crater is no less alluring than Situ Cisanti.

The crater of Mount Wayang is formed from the formation of holes that emit sulfur smoke. From some holes, we can see warm water coming out. Some even look boiling. These crater holes are referred to as fumaroles, while the gas that comes out of them is called solfatara. On the sidelines of the fumaroles, several trees typical of the crater area grow, such as cantigi, suwagi, pakis tangkur, and pakis kawat.

The Mount Wayang Crater area is now well organized, complete with various facilities to support tourist activities, such as a tiny mosque, toilets, saung, gazebo, stalls, and even a swimming pool filled with warm water. This area is suitable as a family tourism option.

Climbing Routes to the Peak

There are several hiking routes that can be chosen to reach the peak of Mount Wayang. From the west, you can hike through the crater route; from the north, through the Mount Bedil route; from the east, through the Situ Cisanti route; or from the south, through the Mount Windu route. Each route has its own attractions and varying levels of difficulty. It's not easy to determine which one is the best or the most suitable.

For those who are hiking Mount Wayang for the first time, the Wayang Crater route is recommended. While it's possible to undertake the hike without a guide, it's still advisable to inform the staff for monitoring purposes. The staff will provide guidance on the route and safety-related information during the hike.

Starting the hike from Wayang Crater, you'll encounter a steep cliff path with steep drops on either side. However, there's a safer alternative route available. If you're unsure, you can ask for guidance from the staff or locals.

Climbing through the crater route allows you to reach a notable spot called Batu Wayang (Puppet Rock). There, you'll find a large rock with a triangular top, resembling the iconic shapes often found in wayang performances. Next to it, there's a flat surface rock where you can sit or stand. This is a favorite spot for hikers, especially when the weather is favorable.

On the other hand, for the other three routes (Situ Cisanti, Mount Bedil, and Mount Windu), it's advisable to be accompanied by a guide or local who is familiar with the trails. Apart from the strenuous uphill terrain, there's a significant risk of getting lost, especially during rainy weather or heavy fog. If you choose to hike without a guide, it's best to go with friends who are experienced and familiar with the conditions of these routes.

An interesting note about the peak of Mount Wayang is mentioned in the book "Tamu: A New Zealand Family in Java" by Marie Gray, a New Zealand citizen who worked as a medical professional in a hospital in Bandung. During her time in Bandung and Java, she hiked Mount Wayang in 1967. Upon reaching the peak, Gray found a collection of offerings and statues arranged in a particular pattern. There were around six statues there. According to the guide who accompanied Gray during the hike, the six statues were named Hyang Pameget, Hyang Isteri, Nyi Mas Dewi Kartini Caja, Patih Sembah Dalem Mangku Jagat, Singa, and Patih Sembah Singa Raksa.

These statues are no longer present on the peak of Mount Wayang, and their fate is unknown today.

The image of the Batu Wayang (Puppet Rock), which has become one of the most favorite spots among hikers, September 2021. (Photo: Gan Gan Jatnika)
The image of the Batu Wayang (Puppet Rock), which has become one of the most favorite spots among hikers, September 2021. (Photo: Gan Gan Jatnika)

Potentials and Challenges

Visiting Mount Wayang is indeed enjoyable. It's no wonder that many people come there repeatedly. Whether visiting Situ Cisanti, Kawah Wayang, or hiking to its peak.

The entrance fee to the area is quite affordable, only 10,000 rupiahs. The parking fee is also reasonable. The ticket price includes access to the warm water swimming pool available near the parking area. For those planning to hike to the peak of Mount Wayang, there's an additional fee of 15,000 rupiahs per person.

One of the common issues that visitors often complain about is the condition of the road leading to the area. About 1-2 kilometers before reaching the tourism area of Wayang Crater, the road is still rocky. Coupled with sharp bends and steep inclines, visitors need to be cautious in controlling their vehicles.

* Translated from this article by Zelika Salsabila Insyra.

Editor: Ahmad Fikri

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